Pass Along RJ
April 08

The Lost Art of Pass-Shooting
by Jason Smith

hen it comes to the grand sport of waterfowling, there is something about the lure of "stuff" that places duck and goose hunters into the Fourth Level of Insanity.  We’re living proof of the adage: "If ten are good, 5,000 must be better." But pass-shooting offers waterfowlers an opportunity to take a gun, a coat, maybe waders, and the dog—and a bunch of shells—and still get in some quality duck or goose shooting.

Successful pass-shooting first and foremost involves scouting, looking for flight lanes between a loafing and a feeding area. Fencerows bordering known feeding areas can also present shots at birds beginning their descent into the field.  Or, if on a big lake or wetland, there may be a finger of water that leads out toward feeding areas. 

For the young dog, pass-shooting can provide easy retrieves on open ground, with little room for failure.  There are, however, plenty of opportunities for Pooch to earn his kibble. A wing-tipped mallard is outrun only by a wing-tipped rooster pheasant.  Dog control on the retrieve is vital when pass-shooting, especially when you drop a leg and the bird sails over a hundred yards. But dog control at your side is just as important, as a fidgeting dog can flare birds. 

Being able to take a good line and hand signals are also important, especially if there is any topographical relief involved, because the dog may not see exactly where the bird falls; a dog that trusts you will be an asset.  A straight-running dog will find more birds than one that wanders out and sniffs around for the bird on his own.

here are two schools of thought when it comes to how to make pass-shots—sustained lead or point and shoot.  For the point-and-shoot method, follow the bird by pivoting at the waist, the gun tucked under your arm, and then mount, and pull the trigger when the butt touches your shoulder.  Sustained lead involves picking out a bird, mounting, and following with the gun.  When the muzzle passes in front of the bird, pull the trigger. You’ll need to find out which method works best for you, but in either case, pass-shooting demands aggressive shooting—you need to go after the bird. 

The biggest factor hindering successful pass shooting is range.  It can be hard to judge in a split second if that streaking mallard overhead is 30, 40, or 80 yards up, but it gets better with experience.  The farther the bird, the more lead it needs.  Most misses occur when you give a 40-yard bird a 20-yard-bird’s lead.  If anything, it’s better to miss in front so that if a few pellets sprinkle the bird, it’s in the head and neck region instead of the tail.

Pass-shooting offers some of the most challenging wingshooting there is and can provide your dog with a variety of retrieve scenarios. Few things are as humbling as a tall shot on a downwind scaup or redhead; then again, few things are as rewarding when you connect and your dog makes a fine fetch.

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